Wasenhaus, Gutedel, 2019
Christoph Wolber and Alexander Götze met in Burgundy while getting their enology education at the local school in Beaune. At the same time they both worked full time jobs between some of Burgundy’s top biodynamic estates: Alex has spent nearly a decade between Pierre Morey and De Montille, where he is currently the chef de culture (the vineyard manager), and Christoph had some years at Leflaive, Bernhard van Berg, Domaine de la Vougeraie and Comte Armand. Shortly after they became roommates, they hatched a plan to return to Germany and start a new project in Baden, a wine region that sits on the east side of the Rhine Graben, across from and within sight of the Alsatian wine region, all in a valley that separates Germany’s Black Forest from France’s Vosge mountains.
From 30 year-old biodynamically farmed vines. 50% direct pressed into barrel, 50% of the grapes fermented on the skins. Weighs in at a mere 10% abv. Pale golden robe. Upon opening there's just a touch of reduction on the nose giving way to aromas of pear skin, white apricot, and bee pollen. The palate is dry and savoury with yellow fruits, a fresh stony component and the faint hint of a prickle to it. There is good texture and cut here and the balance between splashy freshness and the more sapid notes is both agreeable and delicious. Gutedel is the varietal and maybe - just slightly? - more known by the name Chasselas.