Laurent Lebled, Je T'ai Dans La Peau, 2022

Loire, France

Although produced in the Touraine AOC of the Loire, Laurent and his wife Sonya choose to declassify their wines as Vin de France (VdF, for short). This is a skin-contact wine made with Menu Pineau (which makes a fun tongue-twister with Hercule Poirot) that spends 12 days undergoing carbonic maceration in concrete tanks. This lightly smoky and spicy with a core of oxidizing apples and fragrant florality. The acidity is punching at damn near 100% power yet there's a soft, creamy mouthfeel and even a pinch of tannins. On the finish, the smokiness lingers and there's a touch of citrus rind. Chill lightly and drink with grilled octopus, smoky eggplant dip or some Bún Chá (Vietnamese vermicelli plate).